I agree, the characters are what shines most in this one. That said, books 2 and 3 also contain pretty fiendish mysteries ... and they're both MUCH darker than book 1.
Do they need to be read in order? My library has everything but the first book, and I wasn't sure whether I should put in an ILL request for that before attempting any of the others.
Yes, I'd recommend that. There is a clear dynamic to the relationship between Cormoran Strike and his assistant (Robin Ellacott) -- in addition to which, both of their back stories are gradually revealed over the course of the three books, so by reading books 2 or 3 first you might learn something that Rowling had actually been purposely holding back initially.