Had to return this to the ILL dept so I didn't finish the last section, and skipped some essays that started to drag, but there's a couple of really outstanding, strong pieces near the beginning and end - thinking in particular of, well, everything in The Family Table section - Delicacy by Paul Rus...
I found some of the commentary and ingredient choices a little off (she follows a paragraph about monks hiding meat under vegetables with a proclamation that we don't need to hide our vegetables anymore? And puts brined olives or shiitake mushrooms into allegedly Russian foods - as a Russian person ...
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