Great books...a recommendation for those who love the ocean or are adventurous types. There are too many descriptive passages of surfing styles/ocean experiences. That was tiring sometimes. However the writing is fresh and engaging - you wouldn't know from there that the writer is 64 years old.
A thoroughly enjoyable read about life as a transient. The core of the story is Finnegan's trip around the world looking for great surfing. When he runs out of money, first in Australia and later in South Africa, he stops to get a job and earn enough to continue on. I loved living vicariously thr...
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