A polyester material is used because it will extend with the finishes. (Fiberglas material is not recommended.) Fabric is generally cut to extend 3 inches beyond the fixed area in all instructions. The covering is used to the roofing system surface area and the fabric is right away pressed into the wet surface.
Flat Roof Coatings
If your roofing has stucco parapets, examine them for cracks along the sides and top. These areas typically allow water to get in the wall and can cause blisters and wrinkles in the roof surface area. Repair work with Elastek 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, analyze the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roofing system membrane.
Which Roof Coating Performs Best?
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Apply covering when the roofing system is dry and the sealant has actually set. You will be utilizing a 9-inch sturdy frame, -inch paint roller for spreading out coating on roofing system or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Utilize a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Draw up your roofing and make each pail fill that location.
An inexpensive 3-inch or 4-inch brush must be utilized to reach areas not possible with a roller. Use a stiff paintbrush for applying 103 Fracture & Joint Sealant. Topcoat must constantly be used in a very thick coat, to achieve a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry finish thickness of 10 mils.
Coatings are applied with a minimum of working the product for a maximum density. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or pour on roof and spread. Give scupper and ponding areas several extra coats for added security. Allow each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather condition, one coat a day is the maximum; two might be possible in the summer.
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ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry covering. If 2 total topcoats are not used, constantly use two thick coats to issue areas such as scuppers, drain locations, ponding locations, seams, and repaired locations. Prevent using Elastek Solar Magic or The Shield on ponding roofs. Clean skin and tools immediately with water.
These are the wires connecting the roof venting fan. I clipped them just above the blue splice joints. Roof vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the wire and getting rid of the vent, I cleaned up any staying goop and got my very first excellent look at the roofing frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.
Some RV roofs are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no idea what remained in my camper until this point. Not too happy about the amount of rust on it, however hopefully it is still structurally sound! I removed some rust and made a big mess inside the restroom.
Oops. Possibly I need to have put a tarpaulin down first. My final goal of the day was to get the refrigerator vent cover off. I observed RV sealant blobs at 4 points on the cover so assumed there must be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.
Exposing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Peeling old Recreational Vehicle roofing finish on top of fridge vent cap I likewise saw that there was a coat of Recreational Vehicle roof covering over the vent cap. These coatings are painted on with a brush so plainly whoever did this finishing just blobbed in on top of whatever.
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Taking off the cover of the fridge roof vent. As soon as the cap is off it's more of the same. Removing more rubber and scraping off RV roofing sealant and old caulk. Get comfortable due to the fact that this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.
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Some screws will be too rusted and need pliers to remove. Prying off the refrigerator roofing vent after all screws are eliminated. (and the tools used.) Almost every screw remained in excellent adequate condition to remove with a socket motorist, but a couple were too rusty and needed to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.
I peeled the remaining rubber roof from under the flange and then scraped off the old putty underneath. I'll clean it much better if and when I decide to reuse it. Appears like it's in decent shape so I most likely will. Removing the old putty from the flange of the fridge roof vent.
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I scraped the framing inside the opening and found that the framing around the refrigerator vent is made from wood (unlike the metal frame around the roof vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I wouldn't drop any scrap into the fins on the back of the fridge! Here's a peek inside the fridge vent.
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That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I likewise discovered this awesome slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you've never ever seen a slime mold, have a look at some time lapses of them growing! They are freaking amazing! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I eliminate the remainder of the roofing fixtures!.